Almagro

Driving through the plains of Castilla la Mancha never quite prepare you for the historical treasures that patiently await your arrival. It's difficult to imagine that centuries have passed by waiting for the most important moment of their existence – when you arrive.

At that moment history peels off the pages of the tourist magazine and parades in glorious technicolour before your eyes.

Almagro is only one of the historical jewels that lie on the plains of the Province of Cuidad Real and that provides latter day time-travellers with a startlingly clear glimpse of the past.

The narrow streets of its historical centre are lined with beautifully restored 16th century palaces and the ornate facades of a plethora of religious institutions that accompanied the temporal passage of money and power.

Here is a vivid insight into the social structure of a Spain of antiquity tastefully packaged for latter day tourists (also, it has to be assumed, because the current inhabitants like where they live). Almagro is located deep in the heart of the province of Cuidad Real, 22 km from the provincial capital and 200 kilometres from Madrid.

It was first officially recognised as a centre of human population in the 13th century when it became a religious centre. Its economic importance arrived in the shape of German bankers, who bankrolled a hugely indebted Carlos I in the 16th century.

The reason they were in Almagro was that collateral for their money came in the form of silver that was mined close to the town but is now long exhausted. The administrators of this immense wealth were also foreign – the Wessel and the Xedler families – whose links with the growing town were cemented by the construction of lavish palaces.

The myriad religious orders, anchored as they were in the acquisition of wealth, followed closely behind. Today, Almagro quietly bubbles with historical pressure beneath an unforgiving Castillian summer sun. Streets boil during the day but, late in the evening, transform into a fashion show as the inhabitants stroll leisurely around checking for changes in their comfortable surroundings.

A cool beer in the shade of a bar in the main square of Almagro could (depending to whom you talk) probably be classified as one of the few remaining pleasures in life.

Something for the tastebuds: The rich variety of cuisine that is on offer in the restaurants include dishes that are typical of the region and include egg plant, peppers, garlic and potatoes.

One of the most succulent dishes in berejas de Almagro, a dish of egg plant in a rich sauce. The conejo cojunto is comprised of rabbit, local vegetable and garlic and the judias verdes alliñadas are green beans with a dressing of pure olive oil and locally produced vinegar. Fiestas: In the summer months, the Classical Festival of Theatre is celebrated in Almagro. This dwells mostly on the Golden Age of Spanish Theatre of the 17th century.

Plays by such maestros as Lope de Vega are performed with a flair that has been internationally recognised.

More information: http://www.ciudad-almagro.com/