Comillas

Comillas has an impressive heritage.

Apart from the university building that dominates the heights overlooking town and, apart from the late 19th century/early 20th century palace of the Marquis of Comillas, this is where the Catalan architect, Gaudi, built his stunningly elegant house ‘El Capricho’.

Located on the Cantabrian coastline, Comillas was considered by the romans to be a strategically important port from where much of Spain’s mineral wealth was shipped across the Empire.

In the Middle Ages, Comillas fell under the authority of the monastery of Santillana del Mar. In the 16th century the town was converted into a fishing port whose fishermen specialized in whale hunting using small vessels. Such was their success that Comillas became one of the most influential whaling ports on the coast of the Bay of Biscay.

The town itself experienced rapid expansion between the 16th and 18th centuries when stately homes, such as that of Fernández Castro, were constructed next to more humbler homes of those involved with the fishing industry. Perhaps the moment of greatest social splendour for Comillas was when, at the end of the 19th century, one Antonion López, a businessman of considerable business acumen and with business interests in shipping and in finance, supported the Spanish Crown in its bid to maintain a presence in Cuba.

The bid failed but Mr López’s loyalty was rewarded by him being created Marquis of Comillas. His magnificent palace, the Palace of Sobrellano, built towards the end of the 19th century and designed mostly by Cristóbal Cascante, enabled him to play host to royal visitors on several occasions. In the same park as the Palace of Sobrellano is ‘El Capricho’, the house commissioned by the Marquis as a wedding present to his daughter.

The design for this house, realised between 1883 and 1985 amply demonstrated the pure ability for lateral thinking possessed by the Catalan architect, Antonio Gaudi. Gaudi created a building with soft angles, guillotine windows and a minaret style tower whose only function was as a platform to gaze out to sea.

The other architectural marvel of Comillas is the apostolic college, fruit of the vision on Tómas Gómez who dreamed of creating a seminary for the poor, principally for the selection of Jesuit monks. The building, open for business in 1882, is an extravagant example of 19th century architecture and sits in splendid isolation above the town.

The town of Comillas itself is a maze of streets connecting ample and picturesque squares surrounded by well restored turn of the century houses and the occasional palace. This is a town that was the birthplace of five archbishops and there are many monuments commemorating their humble roots. Something for the taste buds Comillas is a small town with a big heritage and a serene confidence in itself.

As you would expect in a town with such a close association with the sea, the principal dishes are sea-food based. For example, kidney beans with clams, ‘cachopo’ (rockfish stuffed with seafood and presented in a wonderful garlic sauce), and fresh vegetables from the fields that line at the feet of the Picos de Europa are all wonderful culinary experiences.

Fiestas

Fiesta of San Pedro. 29th June - partying, processions and picayos, the local form of dancing. Fiesta of the Christ of Amparo. 16th July. This traditional fisherman’s festival is a celebration of the town’s long association with the sea.

More information: http://www.turismocomillas.com/