Santillana del Mar

This small town, located on the western extension of the Cantabrian coast is perhaps one of the best preserved medieval towns in northern Spain.

However, before we congratulate ourselves on discovering unexplored territory, perhaps it would be prudent to remember that attractive restoration and faithfulness to original design can create an atmosphere of uneasy alliance between hyper conservatism and economic reality.

In Santilla del Mar, if you get it wrong and visit on a holiday, or any day within the high season, the risk is run of being embroiled in a multicoloured river of touristic incoherence that can threaten anonymous submersion and a crisis of identity.

If our erstwhile visitor can manage to separate herself from the, admittedly rare, disagreeable attitude of local inhabitants towards those who are collectively bundled into a box identified with the disparaging label of ‘tourist’, she is in for a fascinating journey through time.

Santillana del Mar’s privileged position, not far from the caves of Altimira, speaks of a recorded history that is one step removed from timeless. The caves, located about 2 kilometres from Santillana are a startling example of early cave art. Elegant bison, horses, deer and wild boar run effortlessly over rock faces, their muscles rippling along contours of geological fashion.

The effect presents us with an unparalleled example of early Man’s (or Woman’s) artistic genius. Santillana del Mar itself is full of buildings that span across the 12th to the 17th centuries.

The ancient Via de Agripa, now part of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, passes close by here and it was along this route that the remains of the patron saint of Santillana, Santa Illana (Saint Juliana – hence the name of the town), were transported, it is thought sometime in the 6th century. The location of her mortal remains here prompted the construction of the monastery of Santa Juliana.

This building no longer exists but in its place is the impressive romanic Collegiate Church, which now houses the tomb of Santa Juliana. The Collegiate was constructed in the 11th and 12th centuries and acted as a nucleus for the construction of grand houses and palaces by the aristocracy of the day who came here to live.

Their influence was marked and many of their homes have been preserved as originally built. On many of them the family coat of arms is preserved. For example, one of the most impressive coat of arms is displayed on the House of the Hombrones, which is located at the end of Cantón Street. It displays two giant gentlemen supporting a shield which bears the enigmatic slogan: “A good death brings lifelong honour”.

Santillana possesses many picturesque squares surrounded by superbly preserved 16th and 17th century house. These are home to residents that have long since been immunised to the prying lens of the tourists’ camera. And, if you’re lucky enough to visit Santillana on a day when the chef is in a good mood, you will be presented with quality examples of the art of Cantabrian cuisine served in one of the several restaurants in the town.

If the chef is grumpy, don’t get your hopes up. The art of a good meal lies deeply embedded in the tradition of tranquil serenity.

More information: http://www.santillana-del-mar.com/english/guide.htm