Astorga, León
Cities are like good wine; they seem to mature and improve with time. Astorga is no different and, in fact, seems to prove the fact. In Astorga the passing of the centuries is almost tangible.
This was the former Roman city of Asturica Augusta, a city praised by no less than Pliny the senior.
Although a beautiful city in its own right, this was also a city bracketed by highways that connect it with other destinations. One road begins in Madrid and reaches La Coruña and the other starting in Logroño and ending in Vigo.
Arguably, however, the most famous, and certainly one that has been tramped by many hundreds of thousands of feet over the centuries, is the road that travels from Bordeaux and reaches Santiago de Compostela; the timeless Road to Santiago. This road largely follows the ancient Roman highway that traversed the north of Spain that connected Astorga with Bordeaux.
Its importance was emphasised to its proximity to the main thoroughfare that joined the capital of the Roman province of Lusitania, Mérida, with the capital of the most important judicial district of the west of Spain: Astorga. This was the ancient route of the Via de Plata that, today, is followed by a rapid motorway; an artery joining south with north, east with west.
Astorga today is a city filled with architectural marvels accumulated over time, like a child collecting bright baubles. Shaped over a time span of more than two thousand years, it not only offers the possibility to witness a unique heritage or to sample a rich and varied gastronomic delight, it is also a place that offers shelter to the many travellers that still walk the Road to Santiago and an open door to visitors from all over the world.
Strolling through Astorga
The Cathedral
This magnificent building is situated on top of a previous romanic church. Construction began in 1471 and was not completed until the late XVIII century. This means that the different architectural styles that have evolved over this time can be clearly seen; the Renaissance façade of the Bishops access and the Baroque of the principal façade being excellent examples.
The Bishop’s Palace
After the previous Bishop’s palace was burned down, the Catalan architect Antonio Gaudi was employed to build its replacement. The result is a unique example of this visionary architect’s work. Work began on the palace in 1889 and continued until 1913. In 1963 it was converted into the Museo de los Caminos to exhibit some fine examples of Romanic works.
The Town Hall
The town hall, located in the Plaza Mayor, a typical example of a Spanish main square with pillared arcades housing the city’s shopping centre, was constructed as a meeting place for the city’s politicians. Work started in 1683 and, after various renovations, was completed in 1994.
Other places to visit include:
The Chocolate Museum. A sweet toothed history of the chocolate making process for which the region is famous.
The immured woman cell. This humble chapel has an inscription above a small window reminding all those who see it of the retreat that women made here as a voluntary penitence.
The City Walls. These walls are the well-preserved remains of the walls erected in Roman times during the III and IV centuries. Part of the original structure remains but the later, violent history resulted in much of the original wall being replaced. In fact, only the Puerta Romana, located near the Cathedral, shows the original structure of the wall
Something for the Taste Buds
The typical dish of Astorga is the Cocido Maragato, a stew made from seven different types of meat, chickpeas and cabbage. This is lubricated before the main meal with a hot soup and followed by custard as a dessert. Just make sure you have somewhere to a) siesta and, b) run to in an emergency.
On the sweet side, the mantecadas (lardy cakes), pastries and chocolates are all marvellous, if a little on the calorific side…
More information: http://www.ayuntamientodeastorga.com
