Soon after entering the old town, the charm of Zamora begins to work its magic. The dome that surmounts the cathedral gives one of the first impressions; a unique testament to Middle Age ingenuity and originality mixed with eastern fancy and austere Catholicism.
This was the cathedral that, in the 13th century, was patronised by the pretender to the throne of Castilla, Alfonso VI and his sister (who, some vicious tongues would dare to whisper, was also his lover) Doña Urraca, and it was close to here that the army of the king, Sancho II, brother of both the aforementioned, assisted by his invincible general, El Cid, besieged his siblings in a bitter internecine war for succession to the throne of Castilla and León.
The conflict was resolved by the untimely death of Sancho by the hands of an assassin who, some say, was sent by his treacherous sister.
Such are the vagaries of history and on such legends are built the foundations of Zamora. Whatever the truth, Zamora offers the visitor with a huge variety of monuments to visit and one of the most impressive records of Medieval Spain in the country.
Long before the construction of the cathedral, Zamora was the focal point for an uprising against the Roman invaders. One Viriato, a fearsome warrior and defender of Iberian liberty fought and died here in 139 A.D. and his passing is marked by various plazas and streets named after him.
Zamora city sits on the banks of the Rio Duero and is home to several fine examples of Renaissance palaces. This, its enviable record of romanic architecture and its great food and wine makes Zamora a perfect place to relax, explore and simply get to know better.
Places worth a Visit
The cathedral was commenced in the 12th century and I testament of the fact that the Muslim invasion of the Iberian Peninsula didn’t really affect this part of the country. In fact, for much of the history of the Arab occupation of Iberia, this region held the Islamic kingdoms to ransom and demanded large sums of money in payment for ‘protection’.
The cathedral was built as a mark of Christian power and became a rallying point for the launch of the ‘Reconquista’. In the 15th century the eastern wall was replaced by a Gothic substitute and the cloister was renovated and replaced in the 16th and 17th centuries.
Of course, it was here too that El Cid was accepted into the entourage of Alfonso VI after the death of his brother. And it was here that the seeds of his fall from royal grace were planted.
The castle, currently being restored, is an excellent example of Middle Ages Zamoran power and influence. Its triple line of defence is now very patchy but some fine examples of the original walls still exist and these are being sympathetically restored to their original splendour.
Walking through the narrow streets of the old town the traveller can take in many of Castilla y Leon’s finest examples of the romanic architectural tradition. In the Rua de los Francos, the church of Iglesia de la Magdelena is a classic example of Romanic architecture. Make note, in particular, of the half-hidden figure of a bishop whose presence, under the rose window on the southern façade of the church, is considered by local tradition, to mean that those who discover him will marry in the near future.
Popular Festivals and Fiestas
Semana Santa in Zamora has been declared to be of national touristic interest because of its tradition, colour and pageantry. The tradition goes back to the XIII century.
24th to the 30th July see the festival of San Pedro. This consists of a ceramic fair and a market with garlic, wine and cheese being bought, sold and consumed.
More information: http://www.zamora.es