Trujillo

Sitting atop a granite batholith, some 250 km to the west of Madrid, Trujillo is a city filled with buildings and monuments representing many different stages in the cycle of Spanish and world history.

Trujillo is an historical testament to man’s innovative genius and one of the most important and impressive artistic and culturally rich cities of the world. Archaeology defines several distinct episodes in the development of the city. An important Celtiberian settlement, known as Turaca, was located here and, during romanisation, in the early centuries of the new dawn the city, Turgalium, was a tributary outpost to the principal regional administrative centre of Augustus Emerita (today called Mérida).

The decline of the roman empire left Iberia poorly prepared for the subsequent waves of invasion and, although evidence exists of the influx of northern tribes, principally the Vandals and the Visigoths, little remains of their passing. The Moors proved to be more enduring and, after the successful invasion of the 8th century (an invasion that in reality evolved from an invitation to act as mercenaries for one feuding Visigothic king against another), the Moors settled in Taryala creating a favourable environment for trade and social development. At this time an important market was established in the area that is now the Plaza Mayor. The fortress and much of the walled citadel was also an Arabic innovation and was considered vital against the increasingly frequent attacks by Christian warlords.

In 1232 Fernando III marched victorious into Trujillo. His entry into the city was bolstered by the apparent apparition of the Virgin Mary above the castle walls. This event is still marked by the image of the Virgin in pride of place on the city’s coat of arms. Trujillo became a privileged town and held a position of special importance in the affections of successive Spanish rulers. As a mark of this high esteem, Alfonso X established a system whereby his favoured subjects, called ‘hidalgos’, were exempt from paying taxes; the fiscal burden falling on the shoulders of those of humbler origin.

The hidalgos were a race apart – even though the benefits of the family fortune were usually inherited in their entirety by the first-born male of the family, it was considered dishonourable to earn one’s living. This practice resulted in many young men of noble birth who had no capital and small incomes. It also generated a mentality of disdain for those who earned a regular living. This, together with the earth shattering discovery of America at the end of the 13th century, set the scene for one of history’s great culminations.

The bored, yet well healed, hidalgos formed the backbone of the Spanish forces that opened up the jungles of South America to the Spanish Empire. Trujillo sons such as Pizzaro and Orellana are names that burn on both sides of the Atlantic, and not always with the same degree of pride. Trujillo benefited magnificently from the bonanza of booty that issued in a golden flood from the New World. Almost immediately grand new palaces and soaring churches to the glory of God were commissioned for construction.

Today, Trujillo celebrates its historical legacy in style. Careful restoration and thoughtful management make this city one of the premium tourist destination of the Iberian Peninsula.

Something for the taste buds:

The ‘migas extremeñas’ are famous in this part of the world for their savoury nature. Made from bread, peppers, garlic and virgin olive oil, this simple dish was originally prepared because there was no money for more complex food (those who ate it were probably too busy paying taxes for the better off). The ‘Odobo de Mataza’, a dish made using pork from the Iberian pig, wine and garlic, if well prepared, is one of the highlights of a stay in Extremadura.

Fish and game dishes are well represented here. In particular the cod cooked in brine with prickly pear leaves ‘Bacalao en Escabeche con Pencas Silvestres’ and rabbit meat balls cooked in wine and virgin olive oil, ‘Albondigas de Liebre’ are worth a special mention.

Fiestas and Important Events

Christmas and Epiphany have been celebrated in Trujillo for centuries. They are accompanied by much colour, celebration and lots of freely distributed sweets.

Carnival is celebrated some time between on 22nd March and 25th April. During this time many people dress in regional costumes and there is are many demonstrations of typical dances from the area.

Holy week is one of the main events of the calendar. There are many ‘pasos’ or depictions of the Passion of Christ lovingly taken through the streets accompanied by flowers and tears. The scenes and their fabrication are real works of art lovingly prepared all year round by the city craftsmen.

The Romeria is celebrated in May. This is a fiesta in honour of the patron saint of the city, el Cristo de la Salud. The saint is accompanied to the ermita of San Lázaro.

The major fiesta of the calendar in Trujillo is that of the Asunción de María. Held on the 15th August the festival the festival celebrates the ‘liberation’ of the city from the forces of Islam. This is a time of partying, celebration and the liberation of much testosterone.

More information: http://www.trujillo.es/